DIY Console Table with Farmhouse Top & X Accent

As many of you know, my wife and I have an (almost) five month old son. He came earlier than expected (he was due the beginning of October and decided to show up at the end of August), so we were left scrambling a little bit to get everything finished in his nursery while he had a three week stay in the NICU.

One project that we had was refinishing a rocking chair that someone gifted us–I’d barely gotten into sanding the old paint off before Alton came, but thankfully my father-in-law took over the project and got it all painted for me, and my mother-in-law made all-new chair pads. It didn’t take long for my wife to point out that something was missing in all of this, though.

“We don’t have a table where we can set anything.”

And she was right. The chair was on one side of the room, his dresser on the other. The only thing available was the window sill, which isn’t exactly a large space. My first idea was to do a small end table, but the more I looked at the size of the bare wall that it would be going up against, the more the idea of a console table spoke to me.

I wanted it to be low enough that it fit under the window and about the same length. After getting some measurements and sketching it out on some graph paper, I decided to take to Sketchup to try and model it out. I got a great, if dated, video of how to use Sketchup published by Fine Woodworking Magazine (You can find it here–the video is for Sketchup 8, but it still gives a ton of useful information if you’re a novice) I’ll admit, though–the “X” accent wasn’t something I got into the Sketchup plan very well (I’m still figuring out the nuances), so when I went to build I used a technique I picked up from Sam at, who explains it better than I could in a post she did for the Home Depot blog for a wooden table lamp. Also, if you look at the rest of Sam’s blog, you’ll find that she does have something of an obsession with X accents. She does them well, though. =)

To tackle this project, you’ll need a few things.


Saw–I used a Ryobi 10 in. Compound Miter Saw on my project, but you could also takle this with anything from a circular Saw to a table saw will work. Heck, if powered saws scare you, a solid hand saw. No judgement as long as it gets the job done!

Drill/driver–I use a Ryobi 18v Cordless Drill for drilling pocket holes, and a Ryobi 18v Impact Driver for driving the screws in.

Pocket Hole Jig–I use a Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System. It’s been a pretty awesome little jig, but I’d eventually like to upgrade to the Kreg Tool K5 Master System. I keep seeing everyone else using them and I admit I’m a little jealous of them.


2×3—Three 8’ boards
1×4—Four 8’ boards
2×4– One 10’ board, or one 8’ board if you don’t mind adjusting measurements slightly—the project uses exactly 96 inches, and you’ll likely lose 3/8ths of an inch to your sawblade when cutting.
2×2—One 8 Foot board

Plans on!

Also on Ryobi Nation!

Get the free printable plans here!


If I’m linking to a tool or material, there’s a good chance it will direct you to Amazon—using the magic of affiliate linking, your use of the links in the post lets Amazon know I sent you their way, and if you buy something within 24 hours, I’ll receive a commission. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, but it helps us keep the lights on.

Rest assured, I’m not going to randomly pitch you on something that I don’t think you could use—Whenever possible, I try to link to the tools I use myself. If it’s something I don’t have, I only recommend tools from brands I trust.


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